Saturday, July 8, 2023

The Last Day! Completed Camino

The Last Day!!!

We woke up early to make the final trek into Santiago.  

Josh and Wendie headed out about 30 minutes before Joe and I.


We finished getting all our gear together, doctoring up my feet and headed out the door ourselves.  We got the awesome bonus of seeing the full moon straight down the street we were staying on.

We had less than a 10k to go.  


Less than 6.2 miles. 


I’ve run 6.2 miles. 


I can walk less than 6.2 miles with a backpack on. 


So we started the last day to the finish. 

Already getting teary!

It was fun to watch the kilometers on the pillars pointing the way to Santiago get smaller and smaller.  They had been such overwhelmingly large numbers at the beginning. 


Suddenly the numbers weren’t overwhelming anymore.


What was overwhelming was the emotions that I was feeling as we walked the last miles. 


So many lessons.


So many new experiences.


So many emotions.  


The sun was coming up and we enjoyed the cool air and the way the sun was shining over the tops of the trees and buildings we were passing.  

Then the pillars started to say 5k left.  Three miles!  

Oh my goodness.  


I’m really doing this. 


I’m really finishing a walk that took 15 days (including the two rest days).


I had walked multiple days in a row with more than 10 miles. 


I had blisters on the backs of both heals (with blisters under those blisters).  Blisters on several toes and blisters under two toes on one foot that grew into the ball of my foot the last few days.  


Basically my blisters had blisters.  


But I kept going in spite of them.


So many things to be proud of.  

We got into Santiago but we still had a ways to go.  The cathedral is in the center of town. 


There was a long trek up city streets, and of course it was uphill.  


But unlike the long slog uphill on city streets in Vigo, this was easier, at least mentally, because the cathedral was at the end.  


The problem was that the yellow arrows and pillars kind of disappeared the closer we got.  We didn’t want to wander around and get totally lost so we stopped for a few minutes to check the map and make a plan on what street we were going to follow into the courtyard of the cathedral. 


Now the streets were more of the older streets and buildings.  Narrow with lots of shops and cafes. 

First glimpse of the cathedral!

We saw some pilgrims walking our direction looking for their hostel or hotel.  It felt like we were getting really really close. 


I was so excited.  


I couldn’t stop smiling!


Then we suddenly were there!


This big open courtyard with old buildings on three sides that were impressive.


But the main attraction was the cathedral.  


We had seen many churches, monasteries, convents, and cathedrals but this one was the most amazing!

Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela 

Because it was relatively early there weren’t many people in the courtyard.  


Some pilgrims finishing like we were. 


Some were laying on their backs, using their backpacks as a pillow and just staring at the cathedral.  


Lots of people laughing and crying.  

Done!!

You will never guess what I was doing….


Yep.  


I was crying.  


I did it. 


I did this really big adventure. 


I overcame physical hardships.


I overcame even more mental hardships. 


I overcame. 


I hugged my husband in the middle of that courtyard and cried and cried.  Sharing this adventure with him and this moment with him is definitely up there on the most amazing things we have done together list.  And we have a pretty great list.

Love sharing my life with the best man I know! 

Happy tears. 


Proud tears.


Even sad tears.  Because there is never a first time to do something again.  When it something this epic it makes it very special.  While I was glad to be done, I was sad it was over.  


I was so busy feeling all the feels that I stopped for a moment for Joe to take a picture of me and then I wasn’t really interested in more pictures.  


I was just soaking it all in.  


We saw our friends Josh and Wendie and got big hugs from them.  They had enjoyed having their time together before we got there.  They went to go get their certificate of completion called the Compostela. 


Joe and I sat on the bench on the side of the courtyard and just soaked it all in for quite awhile before we got up to go see about getting our Compostela.  As we were walking past the Parador (where we would be sleeping that night) Robin and Sea came out so we got even more hugs and loves.  


Such a good day!


We headed down to the place where they verify your Pilgrim passport to make sure you have all the stamps for each day before you receive your official certificate.  We had to have one stamp a day for the first part of our journey.  Once we got to Vigo we had to have two stamps a day.  


I was a little worried because we had broken the last stage into two parts. We had gotten three stamps the day before but because we left so early on the last day and it was a shorter walk, nothing was open for giving us stamps before we finished.  


Joe didn’t really care either way but I wanted that Compostela as physical proof that I had actually done this!


We had to fill out a form showing where we started and what Camino route we took.  Then we got a number and got in line.  Our numbers were 60 and 61.  That’s how many pilgrims had applied for their Compostela that day so far.  


When it was my turn I walked up to the woman who was going to check my passport and she was lovely.  Turns out she was from Michigan!  She asked me questions about the journey and how it went while she looked over the passport.  I told her that while I had stamps for every day I didn’t actually do the full walk on two days because I was hurt.  She told me that it still counted because I certainly put in the work after I got back on the road.  And I had done all the miles from Vigo on so that worked as well.  She was incredibly sweet.  


It all got real and overwhelming all over again.  


Holy crap!  


I just walked 161 miles…. In a row!  


I got teary…again.

The woman stamped my passport for final time with the stamp for the cathedral and then again for the stamp for being officially done.  She handed me my passport back, then showed me the certificates of completion. 


One of them shows the information about the Camino and how many miles we went. It’s called the Distance Certificate.  


The other paper was the official Compostela which is my proof that I successfully completed the requirements for the Camiño. The Compostela also gives me my official Latin name.

Because I was teary, the woman took my hand and told me to be proud of the accomplishment, I had very much earned it.  She gave my hand a big squeeze and a then she smiled at me and said, “Buen Camino!”  


We bought the little cylinders to roll up our certificates so that we could get them home with being wrinkled and torn and then we headed out to find Josh and Wendie.  


They were waiting for us just outside the building.  I walked over and announced that from now on they could refer to me by my Pilgrim name….


Elizabetham


Which is pretty ironic because I always wished that Lisa was short for Elizabeth.  


Wendie and I had emailed the Parador when we were in Padrón to see if we could do early check in when we arrived.  They told us both that it would depend on availability.  


So we decided to go in and see what they said even though it was not even 11:00 am yet and check in wasn’t until 3:00 pm.  


Turns out we all got early check in.  Right then!  Which was amazing!!!  So we got to take our backpacks up the room and spend the rest of the day not worrying about dragging it around with us until we could check in.  That was truly a blessing!!  


The Parador had been a hospital before it was turned into a hotel.  It was built in the 16th century to provide care for pilgrims as they finished their Camiño. That’s why it is right next to the cathedral . But it still felt like a castle (like the Parador in Baion.). The room was lovely and the hallways, artwork, courtyards were all so amazing to look at each time we wandered through.  


We met up with Josh and Wendie and went to get in line to go inside the cathedral.  While we waited in line we chatted with other pilgrims who had also finished that day or the day before.  


We also started seeing pilgrims we had met along the way.  Each time we saw someone we had met it was like a reunion with long lost friends.  It made the concept of “Camino Family” take a whole different light.  

We found the girls from Rome, we had sang Happy Birthday to their friend in a video for them early on. 

Emily aka North Carolina-Met on the Spiritual Variante

Dutch couple we crossed paths with almost the entire Camiño.

We will most likely never see these people again.  But we have a connection.  We have memories.  They are a part of our story and we are a part of theirs.  That is very special!


The inside of the cathedral is just as impressive inside as it was outside. It’s hard not to just sit and gawk at it all.  We sat for the longest time just looking and the longer we looked, the more we saw.  It was impressive. 

Then off to yet another cafe for coffee and laughter.  Then we had big hugs because, wow, we had accomplished something pretty great together.  This was our last time together, everyone was going to be taking off to go on individual adventures after this point.  So it was fun to finish off our adventure with the Gums with one last bout of conversation, memories and laughter.  We sure treasure their friendship and the many, many memories and adventures we have had together over the years. 


Joe and I headed back to the cathedral courtyard and then to the Parador for a well earned nap!  In a king sized bed!  I think it was the first super solid nap I had the entire trip.  


When we woke up we headed down the cafe at the Parador to have a beverage with Robin and Sea so that we could have our goodbye’s with them before everyone parted ways.  More great conversations, laughter and new memories with newer friends.  


After we said goodbye to Robin and Sea, Joe and I walked around and looked into shops.  Then we had dinner before we tucked ourselves back into our room for the evening.  


Because we didn’t have to get up early to walk the next morning and our flight wasn’t until the afternoon we got to sleep in.  Breakfast came with our stay and we picked 9:00 am.  It was awesome to slow roll into our day for a change!  Breakfast was great and we enjoyed the food and the people watching.  


We then took our dirty clothes to a nearby laundrymat so we could have all clean clothes for the last part of our adventure.  


After all the shops we went through the day before I new what I wanted to get as a sourvenier for the trip.  I got two tiles like the ones that we would see on the sides of buildings and fences.  One with the shell and one with the arrow.  I also got a small ring that has shells, the Camino cross, and arrows on it.  A few stickers and some magnets were also purchased along the way.  


You really can’t go too crazy buying souvenirs when you are traveling with a backpack.  Not enough room to carry it and no desire to weigh your backpack down with more stuff while you are hiking.  


Then we went and got more pictures in the courtyard.  I was ready to take the time to record our finish.  I wasn’t the day before because I was too busy feeling all the feels.  But it was fun to go get some pictures with all the different Pilgrims, tourists and people milling around.  The vibe is awesome!

Then we went to the cafe at the Parador and snagged a great table that looked into the courtyard.  We sat and laughed and talked, just the two of us.  People watching was prime in that location.  Many Sangrias (me) and Cervesas (Joe) were consumed throughout the afternoon.  

View from the cafe.

Soon it was time to leave for the airport and begin the next part of our adventure that would take us in stages toward home.  More about that later.

Lesson Learned on the Camino  

Some are hard to express.  

Some are very internal and intimate.  (I’ll keep those to myself.)


But here are the big ones I came away with.


💙Don’t waste time trying to keep up with others.  Do what you need, what your body needs, what your heart needs.  You all end up in the same place in the end.  


💛When you aren’t trying to keep up with others, you also stop comparing yourself to others.  I gave zero shits about my speed, my size or anything else in comparison to anyone else on the trip.  Especially when I had to stop for a couple of days.  I really had to evaluate what I wanted out of the experience and what I could do.  


💙Everyone processes things differently and we all have to give each other space to feel all the feels.  Sometimes they aren’t pretty or they come out in ways that are unexpected.  That’s real and okay.  I’m so thankful for friends and especially a husband who let me feel all the feels.  


💛I found what I will forever more call “The Camino Calm”.  It’s kind of like the Let it Go concept.  We had some stresses the last few days with delayed flights and short connections and a few other things.  Things that normally would have really stressed me out.  Instead I was just processing what might be possible solutions but not in a frantic, stressed way.  It was more like looking at it as, it might not be what we planned or on the timeline we wanted, but eventually it will get figured out and we will get on with the journey.  


💙I have never been so disconnected and yet connected at the same time.  


💛Disconnected from social media, news media and their negative spin on everything, the stress of work, etc.  


💙Connected to our friends we were traveling with.  


💛Connected to the people we met along the way who showed up kindness or made us laugh.  


💙Connected to people back home who we love that shared the journey through my blog or texted me as we went along.  


💛Connection to my husband as we shared the adventure with all it’s joys and struggles, just as we have throughout our marriage.  


💙While we all might be walking the same road, we are not having the same journey.  Keeping that in perspective is always a good thing.  


💛Connected to people we met that were processing hard things on their Camino, Sharing their story with complete strangers and yet people who they knew were kindred spirits and empathisize.  Couldn’t we all use more of that kind of connection? 


I’m sure that I will continue to process the experience and the lessons that I learned or will continue to learn from the experience.  


I know that I have grown tremendously because of this time, this journey, this experience.  

Buen Camino!!!



Monday, July 3, 2023

Camino: Almost There!!! Day 12, 13 & 14

Day 12 - July 1, 2023

We got breakfast included with our stay in Armentiera. Since there wasn’t a grocery store to grab snacks and water in town we decided to stay for breakfast and take along some things if we could. It meant getting a later start than we had been doing. But we thought it would be fine….

Not so much!

It started out great. Breakfast was delicious and we were able to snag some food to wrap up and take along for snacks along the way. We got started and it was overcast so it wasn’t hot. The trail took us along a creek that ran through a forest area. It was green and beautiful. It felt like we were walking through a fairy land or maybe a path to get to the Shire. 

There were old aqueducts and stone houses that were all along the creek as we walked. The path was lots of ups and downs over rocks and tree roots. So even though it was only a couple of miles through that part, it took quite a while. 

It also didn’t help that I was stopping a lot to take pictures. 😜

We came out of the woods and continued along the path. Joe and I got a bit ahead of Josh and Wendie and eventually found a cafe to stop and have a snack and take care of my feet for a bit. Josh and Wendie caught up and weren’t ready for a break yet so they kept on trucking along. (One of the best things about traveling with them is the freedom to do what is best for ourselves and know that we will connect later at some point.)   

We got going again.  The clouds were breaking up and the sun was out. It was getting much warmer. Eventually the path took us along a river. It was a good trail and the river was pretty but we were on the side with no shade so it didn’t take long to start feeling the heat. 

We did cross and get on the other side of the river which was so nice because of the shade. 


In my head I had broken down the day into 5 mile segments, hoping that we would be done before I got to mile 15.  

I did pretty good for the first 10 miles and then I really started struggling. 

It was hot!

My blisters were seriously pissed at me!

After crushing the hill the day before it was a bit demoralizing to have this day be so hard!

But we kept moving forward. 

We got to a point where the Camino path would take us out to the ocean, and then bring us back toward the hotel, or we could turn and follow the road in a straight shot to the hotel. 

We decided to do the straight shot. 

We still went almost three miles to get there but it would have been more than five to do the round about way. 

Total for the day was was 14.4 miles. It was hot, and long and tiring. We started at about 8:15 in the morning and didn’t get done until almost 4 o’clock in the afternoon. That was a long day and I was very glad to be done! 

Josh and Wendie had a place down by the water and my feet weren’t wanting to walk over a mile to meet them for dinner and then walk a mile back to our hotel. So we decided that we would fend for ourselves. 

Joe and I ended up in a local bar just down the steer from our hotel. The kitchen didn’t open until 8:00 pm but we went earlier than that to get some well deserved drinks. 

Our waiter looked like he was about 13 and the young lady working with him looked maybe 16. We think they were brother and sister. Good thing Joe can speak enough Spanish to get understood. 

We enjoyed our drinks. Then the young waiter came and told us that the kitchen wouldn’t be going until 8:30 pm. 

Oh well! So we had another drink. 🤪

Another pilgrim couple came in and sat down next to us. We hadn’t really talked a lot to them during the Camino but we saw them almost everyday. Joe had met them on one of the days I wasn’t walking and we referred to them as the Dutch couple when we saw them. 

We chatted quite a while with them. Didn’t realize it until later that I never got their names. We were just so busy talking and sharing that I think we all forgot that part. 

After all we had been seeing them and saying hi all week so we were already friends. 

Joe and I finished dinner and headed back to the hotel. 

The next day we would be taking a boat ride most of the way to the next town of Padron. Our boat was scheduled to leave at 6:50 am so we needed to be there by 6:30. We had a little over a mile to get from our hotel to the dock so we had to be up and ready to go pretty early. 

Day 13 - July 2, 2023

Joe and I head out at oh dark thirty so we can meet up with Josh and Wendie to catch our boat.

It was kind of strange to be starting out the day knowing we weren’t going to be walking very far at all. 

The boat took us most of the way to Padrón but slowed down a few times to show us cool things on the water and along the river banks. 

We got to see how they farm mussels out in the ocean. Pretty cool process of how they get the mussels to grow along ropes that dangle from a platform. Then the bring the rope up and it basically goes through something that scrapes them into a basket. The basket then is swung up and the bottom opens up to drop all the mussels into the holding tank on the boat. 

After we watched that we continued up the river. 

Next we saw crosses along the shore line. The boat captain told us there were 12 sets of crosses that were on both sides of the river. They had been placed there to help guide boats in so they would know the sections of the river that had dangers. 


While we were traveling there was a woman next to Joe that was very tired and she put her head back and was sound asleep in no time.  Not just light dozing, I mean out! Eventually she started leaning toward Joe. It wasn’t long before she was all tucked in next to him. We were all giggling about it, including her friends. I’m pretty sure she heard the laughter because she woke up and realized what she had done. She was embarrassed but Joe reassured her that it was all fine. Later when we were walking in Padrón we saw her again! We all smiles and waved but she stood up and gave Joe a huge hug and told him he made a great pillow.

I love those little Camino moments. You end up with a connection with someone you don’t know, don’t know their name or where they are from. But they are are part of the adventure. 

We only had to walk a couple of miles to get into Padrón so we found a cafe and hung out for a bit. Then we went to a pharmacy to get more blister bandages and some Epson salt for my feet. (They were still super pissed from the walk the day before). 

Josh and Wendie were able to check in to their place early so we started making our way to our hotel which was a couple miles out of town along the Camino path.  But first we had to stop and check out the Iglesia de Santiago.  (Santiago Church, even though it’s in Padrón.)

Iglesio de Santiago

On our way we found a laundry mat and took the opportunity to get our clothes washed and dried. (I know I’ve said this before, but I will never take my dryer for granted again!!) 

By the time we finished that and got going to the hotel again my feet were really hurting. The blisters that were under my toes on my left foot had expanded and now I had a hotspot/blister developing on the ball of my foot. So every time I stepped it was like stepping on a really sharp rock. All the other blisters hurt too. 

I was very ready to be off my feet! 

I was also really grateful it was a really short walking day.

I was having serious doubts on how the next day was going to go. 

On the plus side we had decided to break the last segment up into two days into Santiago. So I wasn’t going to have to do a 14+ mile hike. 

The downside was I still had to do about 10 miles. 

On blistered feet that were really angry with me. 

When we got checked into the hotel and got cleaned up I used the Epson salts I got and gave my feet a good soaking. Wasn’t sure it worked but at least I tried to do something to make things better. 

It was so nice to just be in the bed and off my feet!!

It was around 7 pm and I told Joe that we needed to go to the cafe or something until the restaurant opened at 8 or I was going to fall asleep and not have dinner at all. 

Robin and Sea were at the cafe so we had a great time catching up with them and all their adventures they had been having since we peeled off the main route to do the Spiritual Variant.  They had made some changes to their original plans but they had been having a blast so that was fun to hear. 💜

Joe and I took off to have dinner and then headed for bed. 

Two more days and we will be done with our Camino walk!

Day 14 - July 3, 2023

Joe and I got up early enough to be all ready to go and checked out before 7:00 am. The plan was to grab a quick breakfast from the breakfast buffet included with our room and then head out the door. 

My feet seemed better. Some of the blisters that had been really angry looking the day before looked better and the ones on my heels didn’t have as much gunk in them. So the Epson salt soak probably helped. I put special bandaids on the hot spot on ball of my foot. They have a little cushion in them. I used two and basically made it so the cushions were on either side of the hot spot. Put bandages on both heels and then got my socks and shoes on.

Here we go! 

It wasn’t great but it was better than the day before. 

Robin and Sea came down to give us hugs and see us off. They plan to be in Santiago when we finish to cheer us in! 🥰

We started off at a pretty good pace and I was keeping up with Joe. We stopped at a beautiful church to get our passports stamped. 

We noticed yesterday in Padrón that some of the arrows for the Camino way were not pointing correctly.  For instance, if the arrow is directly in front of you and you need to go straight it should be pointing up.  If it points to the left or the right, then you need to turn.  Someone needed a lesson on how arrows work for directions. Lol
Can’t exactly turn left, so must mean straight? 🤷‍♀️

Suddenly we were already 5 miles in. 

My feet still hurt but I just wasn’t going to let blisters keep me from finishing the last two days. 

Not after pushing through all the other aches and pains! 

I think it was a lot of mind over matter! 

There was one last big hill before we arrived in the town of Milladorio. 

We had reserved an AirBnB and requested an early check in. They wouldn’t have the cleaner in until 1:00 but they would let us know as soon as we could get in. It was only 11:30 am so we found a cafe and had some drinks. We also were able to get on the wifi and locate a grocery store and pharmacy for the last bit of supplies for the next day. 

I got a message from the Airbnb letting us know that they were cleaning the apartment but we could come over anyway. 

So we headed out to the place, which was about a mile from the cafe we were at. There was some confusion about location the place but we eventually figured it out. 

An extremely nice man named Luis got us in the building and up to the apartment. His wife Susanna was there and they were both incredibly sweet to us! Neither of them spoke any English but once again Joe to the rescue. 

Luis took care of getting the passport information all set for the rental. Susanna gave Wendie and I big huge mom hugs and kisses on both cheeks. Then we got a tour of the apartment. They had water in the fridge for us and some sort of desert. They were taking care of the pilgrims. 

They were both so kind and loving. They were also really excited for us to be almost to Santiago and that they got to be a part of helping us on our journey. Wendie and I got another round of Susanna hugs and kisses before they left us. They seriously touched our hearts!!

Susanna and Luis! Our amazing hosts! 💜

Tomorrow is the last bit to the finish! 

It was such a huge number of miles at the start, it was a bit daunting. 

Now here we are…

I have logged in 156.3 miles (not including walking around to get groceries or dinner after we have stopped for the day.  

I have less than 5 to go. 

Wow! 😳

I’m going to have a lot of big feelings tomorrow.

Actually, they already started today.

Final installment of Camino 2023 will be here soon.  

Did I mention Wow?